Wednesday, January 9, 2013
Call for Action - Shenandoah Rock Outcrop Management Plan 2012
- The ROMP focuses heavily on climbing, despite the fact that other activities such as hiking draw far more people into the park and as a result, have far greater impact. To use an example from the ROMP itself, Old Rag is visited by an estimated 50,000 people annually, but the number of climber use-days for the entire park is estimated at only 500.
- Several areas are closed to climbing: Marys Rock, North Marshall, Hawksbills Summit, West Summit of Old Rag, and 35 meters north of the "chute" trail at Little Stony Man. While the ROMP does provide general information about impact and natural resources at risk, little detail is given on the types of impact in specific areas. There does not appear to be any definitive evidence cited that identifies climbing as a source of significant adverse impact within the park. More detailed information should be provided to further explain the need for restrictions.
- Given the fact that climbers make up only a small percentage of rock outcrop users, the park should consider the possibility that some climbing access could be allowed, even if other user groups are not. Park planners should consider ways to protect the natural resources without prohibiting access to climbing. Climbers have a rich history in Shenandoah National Park, and this history should be preserved as much as possible.
Mid Atlantic Climbers will be filing a letter jointly with the Access Fund voicing these concerns. However, we strongly urge you to file your own comment, as a climber and an individual, by the deadline, Saturday, January 12, 2013. No matter how brief, the more climbers that file comment the more our message is heard. Simply click the “Comment on Document” button at http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=274&projectID=19298&documentID=50505.
If you have any questions or comments on this, or about filing your own comment, please feel free to contact us at midatlanticclimbers@gmail.com.
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Decision 2013
Mid Atlantic Climbers is starting to put together next year's event schedule and we need you to tell us what is important to you. Have you been to a climbing area lately that you think needs some TLC? Did you witness washed-out trails or access issues during your fall season?
Remember, if you climb in the Mid Atlantic region, you are a Mid Atlantic Climber -- so let us know what you think!
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Happy Hour Benefit Fundraiser Sat 9/22/12
Happy Hour to Benefit Friends of Muir Valley.
Saturday, September 22nd, 2012
All Day/Night
11am-1am
Kick-off the fall season, by grabbing some food and drinks with other climbers at The Greene Turtle in Olney, MD. Just bring the flyer (or digital copy on your smart device) and 20% of your bill will be donated to the Friends of Muir Valley to ensure that this wonderful climbing area stays open!
We'll have a table with some great raffles to sweeten the deal, and to raise some more money!
WHAT IS MUIR VALLEY?
Muir Valley is a wonderful climber-owned property in the Red River Gorge and it's home to some of the best sport climbing on the East Coast. Many of us have visited and enjoyed the routes, trails and roads on this property that are all maintained by the Weber Family for the sole purpose of preserving this unique environment and the wonderful rock climbing it has to offer. This is our chance to show them that visiting climbers care about this great destination crag!
Links:
Happy Hour Event on Facebook
Download the Flyer
Friends of Muir Valley Website
The Greene Turtle in Olney, MD.
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
Rockfest 2012!
Even if you've never been, this will be a great opportunity to take care of local public lands, meet fellow climbers and outdoor enthusiasts, and have a great time doing it! We'll spend Saturday doing various projects in the park from trail work to invasive species removal, and will then have the special opportunity to camp in the park Saturday night. Volunteers will enjoy complementary lunch and dinner on Saturday and breakfast Sunday. After a day of hard work, volunteers can spend Sunday exploring the park, hiking, bouldering or climbing with friends!

Due to the size of the camping area we are limited to 75 campers, so sign up to guarantee your spot!
Where: Rocks State Park
When: Saturday April 21 at 9am - Sunday April 22 at 3pm
What: Getting dirty with MAC and the Access Fund. Get all the details at our event page.
Projects Include:
Building a new emergency access trail to the cliffs.
Fixing a bridge
Removing invasive species and encroaching pricker-bushes to the cliff base
and more!
Share this event on Facebook and be sure to “Like” Mid-Atlantic Climbers.
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Access Update: Dead Tree Wall and Summit Crag Rock Climbing Closures Lifted
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Keepin' The Hits Coming - Ilchester Cleanup Recap
Mid Atlantic Climbers would like to thank our sponsors: Earth Treks and Osprey, our team leaders and of course, everyone who gave up a morning of climbing to give back to the community.!
Friday, May 6, 2011
ROCKFEST Recap

It was amazing; 33 MPH wind, 18 hours of rain, 2 tornado warnings. Despite these extreme conditions, Rockfest 2011 was a great success. As one enthusiastic volunteer put it, "Rockfest, not just a service day but an adventure." Rockfest 2011 ranks as one of the most memorable events in Mid-Atlantic Climbers history.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Ilchester Adopt-a-Crag Saturday 5/7/11
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Fall 2010 Wrap-up
Here is some info on what the climbers of the Mid Atlantic region were doing!
Great Falls, VA Adopt-a-Crag 9/25/10
Thanks to everyone who came out! We had over 100 volunteers work to complete many different projects throughout the park. Including:
- Building an historic fence
- Invasive species removal
- Trimming of trails
- Building a turnpike and erosion control measures on a popular trail
- Hauling out lots of trash from the gorge
UPDATE: Check out our friend Jeremy Bradford's Flikr album from the event!
Earth Treks Gear Swap 9/25/10
Earth Treks Columbia, once again showed their commitment to the climbing community by hosting a Gear Swap. Climbers we invited to bring in their used gear and sell it consignment style; donating 10% of the gear swap sales to Mid Atlantic Climbers and the Access Fund. Their efforts raised over $100 which will be split between the two organizations for the purpose of preserving climbing access; locally and across the country.
A big thanks to Earth Treks for continuing to be so supportive of the local climbing community and caring about preserving the climbing resources!
Access Fund Summit, Fayetteville, WV 10/2/10 and 10/3/10
Representatives from Mid Atlantic Climbers attended this two-day conference with other Local Climbing Organizations (LCOs) from across the country. The goal of this conference was for LCO's to share information on how to preserve climbing resources. The topics of presentations, panels and workshops ranged from Conservation Easements and Land Acquisition, to liability and recreational use statutes, to membership and fundraising for LCOs.

- Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC)
- Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC)
- Climbing Conservancy of Central Pennsylvania (C3PA)
- Climbers Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento (CRAGS)
- Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC)
- New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC)
The Summit was sponsored by the Access Fund and the New River Alliance of Climbers with the help of the National Parks Service and local businesses.
UPDATE: Check out this very detailed trip-report written by our friend Renee Ross from CRAGS - also has a couple good pics!
Northwest Branch Adopt-a-Crag 11/13/10
Our last Adopt-a-Crag of the season was another HUGE success. On a perfect fall day and under a beautiful blue sky, 79 volunteers from all over came together to show a local bouldering spot some love.
In the end, we hauled more than 30 big bags of trash and over a dozen bags of recyclables out of the woods. Not to mention: four tires, a big pipe and a couple of chairs. After the cleanup, we had an interesting presentation on the geology and flora/fauna in the park from Montgomery County Park Commission biologist Doug Redmond. And of course, the obligatory bouldering sesh.
Thanks to all our great volunteers who gave up their Saturday morning to work hard and give something back to the community.
Thanks also to our sponsors- we couldn’t have done it without you!
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Action Alert - NY State Parks
Due to an historic $8 billion budget gap, NY State Governor Paterson recently proposed closing 55 parks and historic sites (Full List), including the Peter's Kill climbing area in Minnewaska State Park.
Take Actions!
We're asking climbers to speak up and let the NY State Parks Dept know that closing parks is not the solution.
The Access Fund has a quick and easy way to voice your opinion and keep these parks open.
Other Resources:Full article from NY Times
Press Release from NY State Parks Department
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Access Fund Memberships Benefit Local Climbing!
Of course you do! - and The Access Fund is making it really easy.
Why Should I become a Member?
The Access Fund recently announced a special member rate of $25 with a portion of that going directly to Mid-Atlantic Climbers!
And on top of that, if we bring in the most new memberships by December 18, Mid Atlantic Climbers will win a $1,000 grant for 2010! Money that will be used to fund future service events (like Rockfest and the Adopt-a-Crags events) but also helping to ensure local access at crags across the region.
How do I become a Member?
Fill out this form on the Access Fund's website- be sure to put “Mid Atlantic Climbers” in the Affiliate Organization box!
What are the Member Benefits?
As an Access Fund member, not only do you get the assurance that you’re helping the climbing community, you will also receive discounts on great outdoor gear and merchandise from:
- prAna
- Mountain Gear
- Zeal
- Rock & Ice
- and others
In addition to discounts on merchandise from the AF store, members also receive the Access Fund's newsletter Vertical Times 3x yearly. And of course, members know they are helping to protect our climbing areas at home and across the country.
Do not delay, become an Access Fund member for only $25 today and support Mid-Atlantic Climbers while you’re at it.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Minnewaska State Park Master Plan: Could open up more climbing at the Gunks!
In recent history, most of the cliffs of Minnewaska have been closed to climbing, despite miles and miles of cliffs and many waterfalls. While the new master plan was drawn up in response to the park's newly aquired lands, it falls short of the hopes of the climbing community.
Here's what the Gunks Climbers Coalition, Board of Directors has to say:
... [the draft Master Plan] includes an extremely limited increase in climbing in the park to a handful of routes above the Peter's Kill at Dickie Barre. The ban within the park on climbing on the Palmaghatt Ravine multiple cliffs, Murrary Hill,Castle Point, Millbrook, Beacon Hill, and Lake Minnewaska cliffs continues. Climbing ban now also extends to the newly acquired lands including Awosting Reserve (Gertrudes Nose), the Shevchenko parcel crags, and Sam's Point. The ban on ice climbing within the park's numerous falls and flows continues as well. The climbing ban at Minnewaska represents the largest ban on climbing on public lands in the country.
emphasis added by MAC
-via http://www.gunksclimbers.org/
For More Info:
http://www.recordonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20091020/NEWS/910200313
WHAT CAN I DO?
Write a Comment!
Let the Park Agencies know that you want more cliffs opened up to rock climbing in all of its forms!
***NEW**** Talking Points from GCC http://gunksclimbers.org/talkpoints.shtml
Contact:
Fred Williams, Deputy Director
NYS Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
Bear Mountain, NY 10911
Phone: 845-786-2701
Fax: 845-786-2776
Email: fred.williams@oprhp.state.ny.us
Thomas B. Lyons, Director of Resource Management
NYS Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
Empire State PlazaAgency Building 1 Albany, NY 12238
Phone: (518) 474-0409
Fax: (518) 474-7013
Email: thomas.lyons@oprhp.state.ny.us
Or E-mail Comments to: Minnewaska.Plan@oprhp.state.ny.us
-Chris Irwin